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This collection brings together primary sources on the British textile industry across the long nineteenth-century, a subject that is both global and multidisciplinary. This set provides an extensive range of resources on the calico printing industry, textile warehousing and shipping, and textile waste and recycling.
In Binghamton Babylon, Scott M. MacDonald documents one of the crucial moments in the history of cinema studies: the emergence of a cinema department at what was then the State University of New York at Binghamton (now Binghamton University) between 1967 and 1977. The department brought together a group of faculty and students who not only produced a remarkable body of films and videos but went on to invigorate the American media scene for the next half-century. Drawing on interviews with faculty, students, and visiting artists, MacDonald weaves together an engaging conversation that explores the academic excitement surrounding the emergence of cinema as a viable subject of study in colleges...
During the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries the production of dress shifted dramatically from being predominantly hand-crafted in small quantities to machine-manufactured in bulk. The increasing democratization of appearances made new fashions more widely available, but at the same time made the need to differentiate social rank seem more pressing. In this age of empire, the coding of class, gender and race was frequently negotiated through dress in complex ways, from fashionable dress which restricted or exaggerated the female body to liberating reform dress, from self-defining black dandies to the oppressions and resistances of slave dress. Richly illustrated with over 100 images and drawing on a plethora of visual, textual and object sources, A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in the Age of Empire presents essays on textiles, production and distribution, the body, belief, gender and sexuality, status, ethnicity, and visual and literary representations to illustrate the diversity and cultural significance of dress and fashion in the period.
"Recognizing conservation as a dynamic social force, the eighty-one readings in this volume draw attention to the cultural significance of textiles and dress, illustrating the intellectual foundations as well as important changes in conservation practice." -- Back cover.
From the invention of four-colour separation printing c. 1710 to the introduction of chromolithography c. 1830, Printing Colour 1700-1830 offers the first survey of eighteenth-century colour printmaking in and beyond western Europe, dynamically expanding print history to include such diverse consumer goods as clothing, wallpapers, and pottery.
An astonishing number of medieval garments survive, more-or-less complete. Here the authors present 100 items, ranging from homely to princely. The book’s wide-ranging introduction discusses the circumstances in which garments have survived to the present; sets and collections; constructional and decorative techniques; iconography; inscriptions on garments; style and fashion. Detailed descriptions and discussions explain technique and ornament, investigate alleged associations with famous people (many of them spurious) and demonstrate, even when there are no known associations, how a garment may reveal its own biography: a story that can include repair, remaking, recycling; burial, resurrection and veneration; accidental loss or deliberate deposition. The authors both have many publications in the field of medieval studies, including previous collaborations on medieval textiles such as Medieval Textiles of the British Isles AD 450-1100: an Annotated Bibliography (2007), the Encyclopedia of Medieval Dress and Textiles of the British Isles (2012) and online bibliographies.
A New York Times Best Art Book of 2019 “A riveting book . . . few stones are left unturned.”—Roberta Smith’s “Top Art Books of 2019,” The New York Times This fascinating and enlightening study of the tie-on pocket combines materiality and gender to provide new insight into the social history of women’s everyday lives—from duchesses and country gentry to prostitutes and washerwomen—and to explore their consumption practices, sociability, mobility, privacy, and identity. A wealth of evidence reveals unexpected facets of the past, bringing women’s stories into intimate focus. “What particularly interests Burman and Fennetaux is the way in which women of all classes have historically used these tie-on pockets as a supplementary body part to help them negotiate their way through a world that was not built to suit them.”—Kathryn Hughes, The Guardian “A brilliant book.”—Ulinka Rublack, Times Literary Supplement
June Swann, an English specialist on footwear and shoemaking, turns her attention to the shoes of Scandinavia from prehistory to 1950, drawing on evidence from recent excavations. Inevitably, most of the shoes date from the 17th century onwards and include remarkably well-preserved formal shoes, functional everyday shoes, clogs and boots and elaborate regional footwear that reflected the Scandinavian terrain and environment. The book is illustrated throughout with photographs, often in colour, of the footwear along with drawings that demonstrate changes in shoe technology over the centuries. Swann also discusses Migration and Viking footwear, the influence of Scandinavia's extensive trade connections on its fashion and includes comparisons with the footwear of the rest of Europe.
Originally referring only to the famed fabrics of Jouyen-Josas, 'toiles de Jouy' has today become the catch-all term for the delightful printed cottons preferred by the aristocratic elite in eighteenth- and nineteenth-century France, made famous by the palaces of Marie-Antoinette and Empress Josephine.
Interdisciplinary volume which brings together papers by leading authorities in textile and costume studies, discussing a wide range of textiles and costumes from tapestries to embroideries, archaeological to ethnographic textiles and exotic costumes in Europe and Asia.