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Beyond the Latin Lover
Marcello Mastroianni is considered by many to be the consummate symbol of Italian masculinity. In this work, Jacqueline Reich goes behind the popular image to reveal a figure at odds with and out of place in the unstable political, social and sexual climate of post-war Italy.
The Media and the Models of Masculinity
Mark Moss's The Media and the Models of Masculinity details the impact that the mass media has upon men's sense of identity, style, and deportment. From advertising to television shows, mass consumer culture defines and identifies how men select and sort what is fashionable and acceptable. Utilizing a large mine of mediated imagery, men and boys construct and define how to dress, act, and comport themselves. By engaging critical discussions on everything from fashion, to domestic space, to sports and beyond, readers are privy to a modern and fascinating account of the diverse and dominant perceptions of and on Western masculine culture. Historical tropes and models are especially important in this construction and influence and impact contemporary variations.
Fashion Cultures
From the catwalk to the shopping mall, from the big screen to the art museum, fashion plays an increasingly central role in contemporary culture. Fashion Cultures investigates why we are so fascinated by fashion and the associated spheres of photography, magazines and television, and shopping. Fashion Cultures: * re-addresses the fashionable image, considering the work of designers from Paul Smith to Alexander McQueen and Hussein Chalayan * investigates the radicalism of fashion photography, from William Klein to Corinne Day * considers fashion for the 'unfashionable body' (the old and the big), football and fashion, and geographies of style * explores the relationship between fashion and the moving image in discussions of female cinema icons - from Grace Kelly to Gwyneth Paltrow - and iconic male images - from Cary Grant to Malcolm X and Mr Darcy - that have redefined notions of masculinity and cool * makes a significant intervention into contemporary gender politics and theory, exploring themes such as spectacle, masquerade, and the struggle between fashion and feminism.
Male Beauty
In the decades that followed World War II, Americans searched for and often founds signs of a new masculinity that was younger, sensitive, and sexually ambivalent. Male Beauty examines the theater, film, and magazines of the time in order to illuminate how each one put forward a version of male gendering that deliberately contrasted, and often clashed with, previous constructs. This new postwar masculinity was in large part a product of the war itself. The need to include those males who fought the war as men—many of whom were far younger than what traditional male gender definitions would accept as "manly"—extended the range of what could and should be thought of as masculine. Kenneth Krauss adds to this analysis one of the first in-depth examinations of how males who were sexually attracted to other males discovered this emerging concept of manliness via physique magazines.
The Cut of His Coat
The English middle class in the late nineteenth century enjoyed an increase in the availability and variety of material goods. With that, the visual markers of class membership and manly behavior underwent a radical change. In The Cut of His Coat: Men, Dress, and Consumer Culture in Britain, 1860-1914, Brent Shannon examines familiar novels by authors such as George Eliot, Anthony Trollope, Thomas Hughes, and H. G. Wells, as well as previously unexamined etiquette manuals, period advertisements, and fashion monthlies, to trace how new ideologies emerged as mass-produced clothes, sartorial markers, and consumer culture began to change. While Victorian literature traditionally portrayed women ...
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Histories of Leisure
1. Seeing -- 2. Traveling -- Consuming.
From Fiorucci to the Guerrilla Stores
The new generation of shops and retail fashion environments must use every competitive edge to capture new buyers-from street level to shelf level. Shopping epicenters, brand flagship stores, and so-called guerrilla stores-all the environments in which we shop-are often charged by their architecture. This book looks back over 30 years of architecture that served to brand such fashion houses and designers as Calvin Klein, Giorgio Armani, Elio Fiorucci, and Rei Kawakubo, expressing each individual's particular identity through his store's architecture. These retail environments are built on innovation, surprise, flexibility, mutability, pliability, and prestige-while also offering the legitimacy that sophisticated architecture has always brought to commerce and enterprise. The collaboration between fashion and architecture is a relationship that continues to fascinate both professionals and fashion customers alike.
Appearance and Identity
This book critically examines recent theories of fashion which have sought to legitimize its pleasures and defend it as an avenue for self-expression. Through a series of essays which address different aspects of fashion in postmodern culture including the wearing of makeup, cosmetic surgery, tattoos, the role of ornament in dress and the blurring of gender boundaries, it is argued that the greatest concern today lies not in the failure to acknowledge the pleasures of fashion, but, on the contrary, in the tendency to elevate it to a dominant position in everyday life where the cultivation of one’s physical appearance supplants all other sources of identity formation.
